The tradition of breeding Angora goats in Anatolia, spinning mohair, dyeing it and using it in weaving and knitting is a tradition that has been maintained for centuries. Although mohair, which has been maintained for centuries, lost its importance with the decrease in production, the production of weaves such as pouches and belts in Tosya, shawl chapiks in Şırnak and Cizre, blankets in Siirt, and knitting works such as cardigans, jumpers, socks and gloves in many places continue to be made in traditional ways. With the understanding that "sof fabrics" woven from mohair are a cultural value that should be cherished, projects for the reproduction of sof, a textile unique to Ankara, are continuing. Receiving geographical indication registration for "Ankara sof textiles" after "Ankara mohair" is a pleasing development. While the natural colours of mohair are used in the production of mohair products, which have been used for centuries in Anatolia, there are also examples coloured with herbal and synthetic dyes. Mohair fibre; It is a fibre that is bright, thin, durable and has high insulation properties, as well as being easily coloured. In this study, applications related to mohair dyeing from past to present were researched and compiled, and an experimental dyeing study was conducted to colour the mohair threads used in ongoing mohair weaving works. Pomegranate peel (Punica granatum L.), walnut fruit shell (Juglans regia L.), onion peel (Allium cepa L.), safflower flower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) and madder root (Rubia tinctorum L.) were used, without or with a mordant. 20 dyeing techniques were carried out using four different dyeing methods: pre-mordant, co-mordant and final mordant. The colours obtained as a result of dyeing were evaluated objectively and subjectively, and the effects of dyeing methods on colours and rubbing fastness values were compared and given.


Keywords: Mohair, Vegetable Dyeing, Madder